Wreck Diving in Coron

I’m not an experienced diver. I just got my PADI open water diver license last November in Sumatra. I had only 10 dives before I arrived here in Coron, Palawan which is supposed to be the “World capital of wreck diving” because in 1944 the US navy sank 24 Japanese warships around here. At least half of these ships still lie in shallow waters, good to dive. During the past 64 years much marine life have made their homes around these dead warships. Also the area consists of many coral islands, so diving would still be great without the wrecks.

I choose to dive with local dive shops (Coron Divers in this case), not necessarily because they are usually cheaper but also to make sure more of the money I spend here stays in the local economy. The feeling is also very nice; we quickly make friends with them. The funny (!) thing about diving with local dive masters is that usually they do many things most western dive masters would warn you not to do. My dive guide in Bali, Ketut had tried really hard to make a puffer fish puff, poking it with his stick but later I learned that this fish can puff a couple of times in a whole lifetime and then it dies. So this is not a great thing to do; better not to touch things. Yesterday’s feat was the table-size giant clams which were quite reluctant to close up like the small ones but our guides managed to do it anyway.

Another thing many western dive masters would think twice before doing was guiding us into those wrecks. Although we were 3 inexperienced divers (one first-timer) and two dive masters, some of the entries and exits were pretty scary. Our pipes and dangly parts got stuck several times but nothing serious happened because they were really carefully watching everybody’s moves and we were following each other closely. But next time I attempt a wreck dive I’ll ask for gloves; 60 year old rusty metal cuts are pretty irritating.


I can’t help it; when I’m inside a dead ship I think about the people who died there and think this place can also be my grave if I make just a couple of wrong moves. Although driving feels far more risky then diving, the chances of being rescued is greater and the time during which one can be saved is longer, whereas in diving it is a matter of seconds or minutes. In fact just the day before we took a sightseeing/snorkeling boat tour with 6 other people we just met. While we were snorkeling in our first stop, one of them, a 64 year old professor drowned. We tried to rescue her. We were fortunate to have a first aid instructor with us who knew CPR and emergency breathing and all that stuff but we were too late to save her. She just died snorkeling with a life vest on. Well it was surely her time but also it was just a few crucial minutes between saving her and not. Makes one reflect on how thin this string we are attached to life is.

Inside the wrecks is magic. Small doors opening in to big dark spaces where one looses the sense of direction (including up and down), little holes which let in rays of deep blue sunlight and families of fish around their chosen little cavities. I try in vain to find a bone or any sign of past human life but all I found was rusty metal and broken glass. We move from one hull to the other through narrow corridors of a capsized shipwreck and suddenly I realized a beautiful but deadly poisonous lionfish only one meter right in front of my face. We both have no space to back off; so I remember the no-panic principle and my encounters with snakes and keep floating with tiny beats of my fins. One of the guys in front of me step on the dusty bottom creating a big dust cloud in which we are lost once more. I hold on to a rusty door pane and wait a little to see what’s in front of me. We turn around and enter a big space with two gigantic metal circles which are perhaps engines or tanks. A big triggerfish is nesting in the bottom. I see once more how life springs from death of another thing and death is just the result of life.


At the end of each of my spacewalks in the ocean universe I get anxious to breath freely, be in my own habitat. I love the alien feeling and the no-gravity effect under water but once again the other place becomes a mirror and I learn the value of our nice and perfectly habitable sphere of existence. I give thanks, move on.

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I didn't take these photos ;)

Tomorrow will be blue skies

I’m in Coron. It’s a really beautiful coral island paradise. The only thing is that it didn’t stop raining since we arrived 4 days ago. So I came here hoping to stay away from any civilization for a while and ended up more online than ever. I also wanted to write about Coron later but I’m almost bored so I start now.


They say there are no typhoons in this side of the Philippines but this is obviously a bit too much for just the monsoon rain. There is the huge Typhoon Nina passing by the Philippines and this seems to be a “tail” from it and this hour it looks like we are just about to leave the cloud cover soon. The sky is still completely covered but the clouds are less dark today and the rain less frequent. Tomorrow will be my day of kayaking and snorkeling, yes, tomorrow will be blue skies…

Fruits of Manila

We were headed for the historic center of Manila when we decided to take a horse-cart ride through it. While Rambo the horse pulled us not through but around the fort, our driver Rolando Miguel Gonzales played guide and informed us about everything we saw.

“This is the old wall.” (it is, obviously)

“This is the statue of Magellan who died here in the Philippines.” (ah, nice)

"This is China Town." (Lots of banks)

“This is a child factory” (oh my God, this street is sooo full of kids, some just naked, seemingly living in these cardboard houses.)

“This is a papaya tree. Do you have papaya trees in Turkey?”

“No.”

“And this is coconut. Do you have coconut trees in Turkey?”

“No, we don’t.”

“This is a banana tree.”

“Yes, yes, we have banana trees in Turkey, in fact we have them everywhere and Turkish bananas are so much sweeter than the bananas here.”


I learned to enjoy tropical fruits but it took some time and I still have some reservations. And although I saw all sorts of fruits growing wild in tropic countries it was still surprising to see these around the crowded streets of downtown Manila. But each city has it’s surprises. And I know some blueberries in downtown Istanbul.

Icould Travels So Can You

Sometimes it makes me sad to see people give up on traveling because they think they cannot. Although they would very much like to travel, they think traveling is a kind of skill only some people have. They are mostly wrong, traveling can be learned.

I have some friends back in Turkey who would make excellent travelers if only for once they’d make the leap and start to travel. But instead they spend years asking the same questions and “getting ready”. So I decided to help you get ready. There is not so much to be prepared for anyway, it’s all in the mind.

The first obvious obstacle in front of starting to travel is of course finances. Although you do need money to travel, you shouldn’t take the amount you spent during your 1 week holiday in a resort hotel by that famous beach and multiply it with the weeks you want to travel for. First of all, when you travel, especially for a longer time, you gain by not paying some bills that you have to when you are settled, such as water, electricity and telephone bills. If you normally live in a big city like Istanbul, it is also very likely that the total cost of your monthly accommodation will be less than your monthly rent. The best way to figure out how much money you will need for traveling in a certain place, just like other things, is to ask people who have done it before.

Although it is normally against the law to make money with a tourist visa, there are many people who do that and make their money along the way. You may have a certain talent or something you produce but of course the most important thing is what is in demand where you want to go. If you make music or perform, you can make street performances in most places in Europe. If you are a good looking young girl you can make pretty good money as a hostess in Japan and finance your further traveling (it is not uncommon among travelers). If English is your native language you can teach in places like Philippines or Brunei where teachers are in demand. Perhaps one of the most common ways to make traveling money after busking is selling handicrafts in local tourist markets. If you are creative enough you can make pretty good money in the flea markets of Goa.

And do not forget that once you start to travel you will learn to reach the cheaper alternatives. You will find out the local restaurants and take some local transportation, which will all be cheaper than the touristic ones. You won’t have to lower your standards to the point of discomfort but you will learn about those things that you always had but didn’t really need.


The second big mind obstacle people have between them and traveling is fear. What if I cannot find a place to stay? What if I get my money stolen? What if nobody speaks English? There are so many what if’s that it is simply impossible to answer all of them. It is always good to remember that, even when we live in the supposed security of our hometowns, there are still many such questions one can ask. What if you are robbed? What if there is a traffic accident? It is better to filter the questions and ask only those which will help you be better prepared.

How do you know how to move around, where to stay, what to do when you travel? Well, if you don’t like the travel guides like many travelers, the internet is full of great sites who’ll give you all sorts of information. But the best way to get relevant information is to ask people. Once you are on the way, you will meet other travelers and it will become a natural part of your interactions to inform and get informed about the road. The best options are rarely listed in internet sites, far less in travel guides. You learn these things as you go along.

Many people feel insecure in new places. Today’s mainstream culture is built on fear and all the movies, all the news and many modern stories tell about unfortunate events as if they are the norm. You are constantly told that you are only secure when you are behind a strong and locked door, at home. One reason I want to help people to start traveling is to make them see for themselves that this is not true. Perhaps you also don’t believe that the world is so full of crime but knowing feels really good and can change your feelings about life in general and traveling helps it.

To play it secure you can use travelers cheques or a credit card. Money transfer services are pretty common around the world these days, in case you’ll need to get some money sent. Never carry all your money in cash. Also divide it to few portions and put them in different places so if you loose one it is not all you have. Carrying a little bag hidden inside your clothes is also very common. And after you have done these please stop being paranoid about your money being stolen.

There are places which are more dangerous than others. Usually there is more crime in cities then in rural areas and there is less crime in countries where the distribution of wealth is more even. Still, I think, one of the most important things is your attitude. If you look very flashy, as if you are carrying a fortune in your valet, of course, you may attract some hungry people. Same apply for being paranoid. So leave your Blueberry, laptop and other gadgets home; you won’t need them anyway. Avoid looking like a rich tourist (even when you are one) and also show it with your attitude. Travel light, and travel with a light which will create a shield around you.


Although most people would prefer to have a good travel companion, traveling alone has its own benefits and is not that bad at all. You will have much more time to think or meditate and random people will approach you more often. You’ll make many friends and you may even receive more invitations. The best thing about it is that when you travel alone you feel free, independent in doing whatever you want or going whichever direction you desire. And when you come across fellow travelers it is a greater joy.

There are many marginal questions which in most cases depend on what you are planning to do. If you are going to do hiking you may need shoes and if you are going to China learn some Chinese. When you are missing something it may become a good learning experience depending on your attitude. I had great time with people I had no verbal communication with and I can laugh about getting wet and being saved by some angles along the way. This is about trust in the universe.

Attitude matters a lot. If you are paranoid, you may actually attract some of the things you fear. If you are suspicious of people, it is unlikely that you’ll inspire trust in people anyway. If you are negative in your attitude and accusing, you are actually asking that your experience teaches you a good lesson about these. After all my traveling years I can easily say that what they meant by “who travels more knows more” is this. When you are in a completely new place where you don’t know and where nobody knows you, you are completely face to face with yourself. “A new place is a negative mirror” says Calvino. When you travel you learn these things much faster and if you get the feel for “making your way” than you may also get wiser. Of course, there are some people who interpret things very differently and keep on traveling being complete a**holes. Well, ask them about their experience and you may see that they are still learning what they have to, but perhaps the harder way.


Some last words for the traveler of the near future:

- Travel light. With your initial insecurity you may take lots of useless things with you; drop them along the way.

- Be responsible for your own health. Discover which local foods agree with your personal digestion and be your own doctor. Carry only a little natural medicine.

- Learn the art of making friends. Carry things between places. Give as you receive.

- And most importantly, enjoy it! Traveling is fun.

WELCOME

Today I announced my first time ever blogs. I have been motivated to do this by Maya who has been blogging for some years and recently started a new blog with the purpose of letting off steam. So I thought I also can use some letting off steam. At first I thought “who’s going to read these anyway?” but then I realized I don’t need to care. It’s more like putting a message in a bottle and tossing it into the ocean of the internet. Someone will read it one day, someone with patience. I have a lot to share and I know I like to keep it as detailed as it gets (one could say “I have a problem with keeping it short” but I rather not see it as a problem). I hope you have the patience

So I started this blog and three others about a month ago. I’ve been updating it quite often ever since but this may not be sustained as I’m not this much online when I’m on the road. I’ve decided to make use of this period of temporarily settling in a ‘civilized’ place by sharing things.

I was waiting to be more satisfied with the first part of the content to invite you here but I realized that’s very hard. I’m not that happy with my blogging skills but it’s a new thing for me anyway. I feel like I’m writing an e-mail to a good, concerned friend who doesn’t have a face or a name. It’s like keeping a diary starting with “dear journal” and then letting the world see it. It’s weird. I just hope it’s not boring and that you have a little patience to see what I have to share.

I just learned that the order of blog posts go reverse. So what you see right below this one is the last post I sent and the first post I wrote is at the bottom of this page, or even on the ‘history’ part which can be reached through the side panel. I would really appreciate it if you can start with the couple of first entries rather than the last ones, so that the blog gains a little relevance.

I would really like to hear some comments about what I wrote so please click the ‘comment’ link right under the posts to give me some feedback. If you really like what I write and want to see what I write as soon as I put it online you can ‘subscribe’ to this blog using the ‘subscribe’ links on the side panel (RSS).

As I said I have 4 blogs now. This one is about my inner journey and I have one on my inner journey, one on relationship stories and one in Turkish.


Welcome to my little web.

But this is an old tale you tell – they say.

But surely this is a new tale you tell – some say.

Tell it once again – they say;

Or, do not tell it again – others say.

But I have heard all this before –say some;

Or, but this is not how it was told before – say the rest.

And these, these are our people, Dervish Baba, this is man.


Naqshibandi Recital

as quoted in The Way of The Sufi by Idries Shah

Names

I come from a country where the only names you can legally give your children are the ones that appear in Turkish names dictionary. This not only limits being creative while naming your kids, it also makes it impossible for millions of people to be named in their mother language. You can name your child “sold” (in Turkish of course) but you cannot use the letters x or w that exists in Kurdish, or anything that is not Turkish. Strange enough many Arabic names are fine as it is considered good to give Islamic names to your children.


I have been to many countries where people have interesting to strange names but so far no other country came close to Philippines in being liberal in choosing a culture for naming. Of course, because of the influence of Spanish colonizers and Catholic religion, the most common names are mostly Spanish, such as Maria or Juan. Then comes the American influence and names like Ronald and Grace. But it seems today’s Filipino families do not need any more influence to find names. For example, Maya’s cousins have the names from Greek, German, French and other cultures. They all have the same family name but their first names are like a world tour: Abigail, Fabienne, Athena, Odessa, Jamaica, Fraulein, Jefferson.


I really love this. Because of the fact that people learn to spell all sorts of names all the time, Philippines also became the first country where some people managed to spell my name correctly. Wikipedia says that if Malaysia didn’t get its independence first Philippines could be called Malaysia. It seems, once that name was taken they gave up about the search and kept the former colonizers name and there seems to be no change in that; it remains the only country in South East Asia with a western name. But they just like it better this way and that's perfectly fine as long as we learn how to spell it correctly (double p, single n, and with the the). At least they don't have a complex about their country having the same name with a very beautiful bird!

Traveler vs. Tourist

There is a long lasting and never resolved dispute about tourists and travelers. Many times it seems these two do not like each other and sometimes people serving tourists do not like travelers and vice versa. It seems to me that most people do not know the distinction as it is mostly hard to tell by the looks of a person whether s/he is a tourist or a traveler.

A tourist, in my humble description, is a person who travels for a limited time (tours), has a greater per day budget, usually buys a whole trip rather than planning it himself, buys lots of souvenirs, takes lots of photos but does not learn much about the local culture or get to meet local people. These are not necessarily bad things. Most people do not have the time to travel long and learn local languages and since their holiday time mostly means a time to rest, they also prefer full facilities, rather than learning about the local ways of doing things. It is understandable.

A traveler, again in my humble dictionary, is a person who chooses traveling as a way of life, either for life or for a certain amount of time (but rarely for just 2 weeks). He may still buy some souvenirs but he has to be careful that his bag doesn’t get too heavy because he won’t be hiring porters to carry it for him. He may stay in some hotels but because he normally wants to make his money last as long as possible to be able to travel more, he stays in guest houses, camps and tries the local foods, takes the local buses, etc. Since he wants to use the local market he learns some daily local language and meanwhile makes a few local friends. This also is not a good thing without exceptions. For example, some travelers get too stingy and overdo the bargaining. Some get too arrogant as if they are Marco Polo.

I read somewhere that, some years ago the Tourism Ministry of Thailand conducted a research to see which one is better for their tourism industry. The result was in favor of travelers. The final report said that the travelers spent their money in smaller and more local establishments and thus helped the distribution of wealth; that travelers are much more sensitive to culture and environment, and this type of tourism is more sustainable. So they seem to have concluded that the Thai government shall support travelers and this may be a reason why Thailand remains a very friendly destination for backpackers.


Please do not get me wrong; not everybody that has a backpack is a traveler, and not everybody who stays in an expensive hotel is a tourist. In most cases it is not that easy to say which is which. And also some real travelers still leave a bad influence and some tourists do god things. What is important is to have a good travel and to leave a good influence behind.

Tourism in general is disastrous for the environment. There are many wasteful sides of the resort tourism to start with. The buffet meals are the most wasteful way to feed ourselves. Hundreds of air-condition rooms in a hotel (plus their mini bars) has the same effect on global warming as an airplane. Many tourists prefer to keep on with their habits when the are on tour and for this the hotels have to import all sorts of food, beer and whatnot to suit their tastes. The cultural influence is also pretty degenerative as these people don’t get the time to learn how to respect the local culture (as if they’d care). Since they don’t know about the local prices they pay very high prices for everything and although on the surface this seems to be a good thing for the local tourism industry, it raises prices and creates the image that tourism is the new gold. They create these concentrated areas which sooner or later becomes too crowded with hotels and shops to enjoy. All around the world you can see this kind of tourist ghost towns which were once very nice spots but are now completely spoilt. Strange enough they also look the same, with the same kind of resort hotels you can see everywhere.

On the other hand, when one has the time and energy to go the hard but more rewarding way, there is much to discover. Taking a local bus is not as comfortable as the air conditioned tourist bus but it gives one the chance to feel where he is. Staying in a village house or a homestay, being a guest to the people of the place is of course why one goes all the way there. For me it has been hard to understand why people go half way around the world to spend a week in a resort hotel which is a replica of the one back home. If you cannot handle eating the local delicacy of fried cockroaches, maybe you can have a coffee in the village coffee house and learn a little about their daily pastimes. There is hardly any hotel entertainment as fulfilling as a village wedding.

But there are disturbing things about travelers also. Some travelers demand too much from the locals as if they have to be taken as local citizens because they don’t stay in hotels. Some demand lower than local prices and exaggerate haggling. The stereotype of a traveler is also pretty scruffy and dirty. This can be excused by being on the road for so long but only to a certain extend. I have also met many travelers who get easily angry with people who either confuses them with or wants them to be tourists. There’s nothing wrong with that, it’s what they know and it’s ok. If you want to have a chance to change this, start with having a positive attitude.

There is also the off road impact. When bus loads of tourists take a safari tour to see elephants, they bring in cash for the conservation effort but they also leave a huge footprint. But travelers also do this, although it is on a smaller scale. With travelers things can be a little more dangerous because they like to discover, to go to places where not many people go. Thus they can find an unspoilt piece of land and in some cases spoil some it. Remember that many beaches and other famous touristic places which are clogged with resort hotels today were discovered by some adventurous travelers in the 60s. It is a hard work to keep your mouth shut and also let the locals know that you rather camp there but it is very necessary.

These are just a few points of the ever-lasting debate of tourists versus travelers. You can always come across a supposed traveler complaining that those backpackers come to small towns and spoil the place by demanding air conditioned rooms and toast for breakfast, just like tourists. On the tourists side, they have an equivalent complaint about travelers keeping the rotten huts from being renovated by staying there and smoking dope all the time. There are endless examples.

Although I feel myself to be closer to a traveler, nobody likes to be boxed and neither do I. After all I’ve recently been taking great many photos and visiting very touristic places like Angkor Wat. The way I travel is more of traveling fast for some time and then settling and feeling one place for longer. I’m not a big a fan of local transport as I used to be also but I love new food experiments (recently I’ve been happily introduced to fertilized, semi developed chicken eggs). I just like being there, rather than seeing what’s there.

When you are going somewhere just think that you are actually going to be there and have an influence and be influenced. Make it nice. Give thanks.