Photo journals: Sumatra

Sumatra is the westernmost island of Indonesia. I was there with Maya for two months September-October 2007. But it felt too short and eversince I have a feeling I'll go back there soon. Indonesia is a great colorful place, almost like India but not as demanding perhaps. Sumatra is less crowded then the rest of Indonesia and still has some great nature. It is where I climbed my first volcano, did my first scuba dives, rowed an inner tube from a truck on a raging river for the first time in my life. It is so rich, sometimes it makes you just stop and inhale. There are places which are very hard to leave and people very easy to love. Indonasians are the most talented people I've seen, or at least they have the biggest percentage of talented people and guitars per household. And they play that guitar, paint that house, carve that wood. You are always welcome.

Main mosque in Medan
Medan is where we arrived Sumatra by boat during Ramadan. Around the mosque was a whole fast breaking food market for the evening. But it was not so great to have this room (where I took this photo from) because they really go at it on the loudspeakers and not all have a good voice, good thing to consider when traveling in Indonesia.



The place we stayed on Lake Toba.
The great tranquil lake welcomed us with this great peaceful place outside the touristic ghost town of Tuktuk.



Our house by Lake Toba. It's a very old Batak house which was transported here and has two floors and a veranda right by the lake. It looks and feels like a boat, especially when you're inside because of all the heavy wood, angled walls and small windows.



Every morning before sunrise I saw these fishermen putting their nets in the lake on their tiny single trunk canoes. They feel one with the lake.



Toba volcano is one of those mega volcanoes, it's so huge it is impossible to see it as a single mountain. And in its crater there is this Lake Toba which is the largest volcanic lake on earth (100x30 kms), the biggest lake on earth on an island. When the volcano erupted 75.000 years ago it reduced earths population to only 10.000 people through a sudden ice age and acid rain. When one sees how big and how tranquil it is, it's hard to imagine it exploding. Luckily, that kind of thing happened only once in in the last 2 million years.



Another view of Lake Toba with its warm waters and breath taking grandeur.



A Batak house by Lake Toba. These houses are famous with their unique design and the roof is a prestige symbol and appears even in little low cost houses like this one.



The main cathedral on Samosir island on Lake Toba. Batak people were not muslimized perhaps due to living up the mountain away from trade routes and vast agricultural lands. So later on they were christianized and they form one of the few Catholic tribes of Indonesia. This big church looks just like a batak house and the wood carvings on it depict local deities and spirits next to Jesus and Mary. Christianity here adopted much fromthe local animistic traditions.



Batak tombs are a whole different world. They are the ancestors' abode after death so the whole Batak land is full of very well made and maintained, very interesting tombs. This one, which has a common concept, has a perfect replica of a Batak house over a pyramidal tomb.



Another Batak tomb. These tombs are hardly christian and someof them like this depict the person who's resting there. The guy was perhaps a soldier.



Some people explain these intereting roofs with the horns of the carabao or water bufallo, but more in Minangkabau then in Toba. The church on the back is another tomb depicting a church.



A local deity or spirit protecting a Batak house. There is much magic mushroom around and the people were shamanic, of course.




Stone circle on royal burial ground in Toba.




Tomb of a Batak king.



School bus. Hard to believe but true, these vans compete to take more people and there is always space for more. This one possibly has close to 80 on it (with 10-12 seats inside)



A great thing about taking busses in Indonesia is the busking one hears. When the bus is stopping these people jump on with guitars and ukuleles and sing one song (usually very well) and collect their money and empty the space for the next busker. Indonesia is a very talented and musical country. I love it.



Canyon near Bukittinggi. This is the land of Minangkabau people who are muslim and matriarchal. This canyon lies between Merapi and Singgalang volcanos.



Minangkabau houses also have unique roofs. Minangkabau means "winner water buffalo" and it's said that the pointed ends of the roof reaching heavens represent the horns.



Another Minangkabau house. They usually follow the same design with the little storage for rice in the front and are very ornamented.



Many times Minangkabau houses are like gingerbread houses straight out of fairy tales.



Majestic tree with a cute fairy in a graveyard. Although most of Sumatra's jungles are extinct, it is possible to come across such ageless trees in places like this.



Playing the royal drum by a royal Minangkabau residence. Sometimes these huge drums have houses of their own.



Although cultural things and natural oddities are more photographed, in fact most of the land is covered with these: rice and coconuts.



Enjoying Padang food. Although it comes from the town of Padang on the south coast of Sumatra, Padang food is very popular and available all over indonesia. It is normally lots tastes from different foods, very spicy and oily and sometimes surprising.



Lake Maninjau, another volcanic crater lake where we went hiding during the Id-ul-fitri holiday time. This one was easier to perceive as a crater because it was smaller, still warm and nice to swim with lots of great fish.



Going up the Merapi volcano (Singglang volcano at the back). It took us 4-5 hours to come to the edge of the crater on the full moon night when the rainy season gave a 2 days break for us. It was really cold and energy consuming but well worth it.



Victorious climbers on the Merapi peak just before sunrise. The air changes, the feeling changes, all tiredness disappear. After a little inhalation of the sulphur smokes from the active volcano we are tripping.



Contamplating on being on another world on Merapi. Around us are many other volcanos, some still smoking, slowly receiving the first lights of the day.



Always wanted to be on the moon and here I am on the ash covered center of the Merapi crater.



Going down from Merapi to Bukittinggi facing Mount Singglalang, feeling very small.



Then we went all the way up to the northern tip of Sumatra, to Banda Aceh where an earthquake had triggered the devastating Tsunami of 2005. The only thing left of the old city is the old mosque. The seaside where I took this photo is still covered in debris but the seaside line has changed dramatically and there is building work everywhere. Now there are these signs everywhere with an accompanying sign showing the direction to the nearest high ground. But from where this sign is, nearest high ground is a few kilometers away.



Pulau Weh is a tiny island off the coast of Banda Aceh. It has great corals and very clear waters (visibility up to 40 meters). This Gapang beach is where I took my diving course and even on my first dives I saw such variety of fish, I'd be afraid to tell.



One of our neighbors on Iboih, Pulau Weh. I couldn't beleive it, when we rented this little bungalow with its veranda right on the water, that the whole coral in front of us was full of all colors of fish and other sea creatures. They were also quite friendly and we snorkeled a lot and made friends. Later they inspired me to learn diving.



Another neighbor, a gecko which looks like a leopard, looks stoned, and makes this really loud gek-koo sounds sometimes freaking us out.



Our last stop in Sumatra was the orangutan reserve in Bukit Lawang. These are some of the orangutans (forest people) reintroduced to the wild after being captured from illegal traders. They seem to be doing pretty well and happy about the attention (and the bananas) they are receiving.




But to reach the orangutans we had to cross this raging river on this tiny canoe which is tied to a cable overhead and pulled to eather side. This is because they cannot build a rope and let the orangutans out and the poachers in. Ok, I was scared a bit but I survived, even after the crazy tubing experience on the same river when I had my nearest-to-death experience.



Abdul, one big male orangutan giving us a private show after his banana and milk meal.




These guys really have the looks like they have some important things in their minds, even when they are peeling fruit.



Then we discovered a bat cave, a huge line of caves in fact. In in places where it opened we discovered vines and roots, just like those in Tarzan. I couldn't help but at least try the Indiana Jones moves on these roots, just before we leave this beautiful magical land of Sumatra.

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Maya's blog has more photos and impressions of this trip here.

Photo journals: Laos

We crossed Laos on the way from China to Thailand. We didn't have much time and we only stayed in Luang Prabang and spend a day in Vientiane. We left wishing to come back one day.

Luang Prabang is a little city by river Maekong. It has much colonial influence from the French and many temples. Still in most parts green is predominant and the city is like a tiny anthill.



Long boats on Maekong. This river is one of the main blood vessels of Indochina, it runs from China to Myanmar, Laos to Cambodia and Vietnam. These kind of boats carry everything. In most parts there were not many roads until recently, simply because there was not much need for roads when there was this river and all it's capillaries.



Colonial main street of Luang Prabang. LP is perhaps the most touristic city in Laos and this one street is where all the nightlife is. And it gets crowded, sometimes very crowded.



Among all the lush green, one suddenly sees a temple, with it's stupa sticking out between the trees. You want to be there, feel the peace, yet you don't want to disturb it, and you realize you have peace right where you are, right now.



Just like in Thailand, in Laos also most men leave their families to live like a monk for some years. It is amazing to even imagine a whole society where so many people at one point in their lives went into a long retreat to learn how to look inside and be peaceful. It certainly has its effect in Laos society.



Humans are not the only followers of Buddha. Perhaps they feel the peaceful vibes or smell the tasty offerings. With whatever reason temples and monasteries are always home to many dogs and sometimes cats. There is a peaceful coexistence (mostly, I must say, because I was bitten by a dog while meditating in amonastery inThailand)



House of Buddha in Luang Prabang. Laotian temples are extremely decorated and many things are covered in gold even more so than in Thailand



Waterfalls near Luang Prabang. The steep hills covered with rainforest is home to much wildlife, giant insects, amazing big trees, snakes. And many many streams sometimes form these gorgeous waterfalls and ponds.



Taking a dip in the waterfalls. When it's that hot, it's a great blessing.



Vientiane, the capital of Laos, is perhaps the flattest city I've visited so far. Even the buildings spread out like a thin layer with nothing sticking out except for this unfinished replica of the arch of triumph from Paris.

Survived my 37, got really high and found love

I survived 37 and I can't believe it. A part of me is reborn, dead and reborn. I wonder which part.

I had a great birthday. A unique one with no cakes, no parties. Yet I fully enjoyed it.

I got really high, as high as I can get when I'm in a city. Then I asked a very nice girl how I can find love. She told me the way to reach love and I found it there. Once again, I was in love.

I know it's cheesy but it was much fun. It was a great way to start my new life :)

The biggest phallic symbol on earth, Taipei 101. I wanna get high.

As high as I can get, at almost 400 meters high feeling dizzy.









And following the directions of the nice girl finally I'm in Love...
(check out the shoes, brand new birthday gift Koji found in the rubbish)

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Photo journals: China

After 5 months of blogging I realized, perhaps I won't have the time to write about the previous parts of this trip. So I decided to post a series of photo journals of places I've traveled between May 2007 - June 2008.

When I first arrived in Southeast Asia I didn't have a camera. When I went to China for the Rainbow gathering and met Maya there, we started to travel together and take lots of photos with her camera. So the photo journals start in Dali, China, where we met. I hope you enjoy it. I'll write a little about the places in photo captions.

Dali Old Town, Yunnan Province, Southwest China
Dali is a beautiful historic city at 2.000 meters enclosed in square shaped walls and moats.
It's one of the biggest local tourist attractions but when I was there I didn't feel it as being a negative influence. In fact it was very romantic.



Erhai Lake, near Dali.
This is one of the biggest lakes in China and a sacred one with many monasteries around.
We had the gathering just across the lake on a sacred hilltop.




Temple on the hillside near Dali.
Yunnan is a kind of autonomous region in China and they still have living temples and monasteries, as oppose to fossilized ones in East China. They are also allowed to make more than one kids. The mountains behind are full of rivers, waterfalls, little sacred locations and cable cars.



We saw this map at an entrance to the hills near Dali.
We looked at it some time, tried to figure out, deided to take a photo in case we get lost.
And we got lost anyway.




Shangri-la, Yunnan, Southwest China
I thought Shangri-la was an imaginary place but apparently it's likely that this remote plateau with it's peaceful Tibetan population was the Shangri-la which the early plane crash survivors told us about. Today it is known as Zhong-Dian and is a fast developing tourist spot.



The plateau where Shangri-la is located is a vast flat land surrounded by high mountains.




Streets of Old Shangri-la.
The Town is already around 3.000 meters high.
Everything moves s-l-o-w-l-y.



Old folk on Shangri-la streets.
They don't have much teeth but they have the biggest smiles.



Their corner in Shangri-la.



Turning the big prayer wheel in Shangri-la.
This is the biggest one I've ever seen. Fortunately there is a kind of engine inside so you can make it faster but it never stops. People literally run and fall around it, it's a fun way to pray.



Every evening people gather in the main square of Shangri-la. Music comes from the speakers and hundreds of people do this amazing circular dance. It's not just a simple walk, there are many quite complex moves but people eaither know them or pick them up quite fast. It's great to watch people practice harmony together in this way.



Rock honey in Shangri-la market. It's sweet and medicinal.



The famous Tibetan butter tea. It's literally hot butter, milk and tea, more like soup.
Very suitable for the cold climate and almost a complete food.



The big Tibetan monastery near Shangri-la.
We were very surprised to see this little model of Potala palace in Lhasa. They are continously building and expanding it and there is a little town growing with it.



The big Tibetan monastery near Shangri-la.
We thought religious activities were restricted in China but apparently things are changing fast. That's why they are also uilding very fast. This huge temple-monastery complex looks pretty new with some age old parts.



I love the natural materials they still use today (except for the rain water drain pipes).
And as temples usually do, we felt tiny and surrounded by a greater energy.



Old gate in the modern city Kunming.
The last couple of decades China developed so fast sometimes old structures are almost sandwiched between new ones. But it's still a pleasant surprise when you're walking in busy streets full of shopping malls.

Few Random Impressions of Thailand

Over the last two years I keep transiting Thailand without spending much time there, except the first time. This time I intended to stay a month but they changed the duration of visa on arrival from 30 days to 15 days and I quickly arranged my way to Taiwan. So before I leave I thought it’d be good to share some impressions.

Bangkok has these very nice, very green and free bicycles you can ride around the touristic area.
Although you have to show them your id when taking one, knowing that you can even
get a pilot certificate on the next street, they also take a photo of you, just in case.

Thailand is one of the most touristic countries perhaps in the whole world and it is one of the easiest to find your way around in. The internet is full of material on Thailand and whatever I may write here has the possibility of having been already written down somewhere else. Since I don’t want to pass by without blogging anything about it and not repeat anything else, I’ll just write down a few random things that caught my attention about Thailand, and most will still be repetitions :)

Colorful Ayutthaya tuktuks. Busses and taxis are also extremely colorful here.

Thailand is the only country in South East Asia that has never been colonized. It has been a neighbor to other colonized countries all around but it always kept the kingdom strong. The current king, King Bhumibol Adulyadej, who is eighty something, is the world’s longest reigning monarch alive, with 61 years on duty. But Thailand is not a monarchy, it’s a parliamentary democracy. Well, on the other hand Thailand has the greatest number of military coups in this side of the world. In other countries around, like Myanmar or Cambodia, when army takes power they seem to hold on to it. Whereas in Thailand army takes power, makes elections in a couple of years, the same guys they made the coup against gets elected, they kick them down and make another coup, sometimes silent. But whatever happens, Thai people really trust the king and almost worship him. Little shrines devoted to his highness can be found all around the country and being disrespectful to him is a big crime. (As a side note, I have first time experienced in Thailand such a strong single superhero, revered almost as God almighty, just like the worshipping of Kemal Atatürk in Turkey. But this time he’s alive.) Unfortunately King Bhumibol is very old and sick and there are no good heirs to the throne, with the son being a corrupt womanizer of a socialite and the daughter, although very charitable and much loved by the people, being single with no children (plus Thailand never had a queen without a king before).

One of the millions of shrines in honor of King Bhumibol.

What happens when you cover all your temples in pure gold?
Your neighbor gets jealous. And in this case, the Burmese invaded the capital Ayutthaya
and to take the gold –by melting it- burnt down all the temples and palaces.

The king’s color is yellow but every year people choose a new color for the shirts they wear with the royal seal. When I arrived everybody wore yellow because the king was 60 years on the throne and he was born on Tuesday, the yellow day. This year they all wear pink, which creates a very soft feeling when you look at a crowded market place where many Thai people proudly carry the royal seal on their pink shirts.

King Naalesuan was sent to exile when the Burmese invaded Siam. He became a hero
with his later victories and his fondness of cock fighting is remembered by
all the big and small rooster statues in shrines and monuments in his honor.

The current political situation in Thailand is very strange. Couple of years ago the army took power against Thaksin Shinawat, the Thai Berlusconi, who was charged by corruption. Apparently people were not that happy with him and his privatization and selling government companies and other property to his family. After less then 2 years they held an election and although he himself was in exile (in fear of being jailed in Thailand) his supporters won the elections. He briefly visited Thailand but was forced back to exile when the court cases started to show results against him. Then the opposition started to make mass demonstrations and asked his party to give up. They had a few incidents when demonstrators on both sides clashed and killed each other on the streets of Bangkok but recently they’ve been first occupying the party headquarters, when some people threw hand grenades on them and then they went on to occupy the two main airports of Bangkok just before Christmas time. Reports said 300.000 tourists were stranded for almost a week when thousands of supporters of Peaople’s Alliance for Democracy took over the airport by literally chasing away the few hundred airport security and policemen there. And in the end they got what they wanted. The irony is that People’s Alliance for Democracy didn’t accept the results of a democratic election and pushed army to force a man in uniform to be the prime minister once again. After all it is just a light scale social class war between these urban middle class and the rural population who still support the old prime minister. The unfortunate result of this is the crippling of tourism industry which is one of Thailand’s main sources of income.

The giant swing of Bangkok. Who else would have thought about holding competitions of high swinging
to the point that it becomes fatally dangerous? I tell you, it's no coincidence they love Red Bull.

Thai people are also different than other SE Asians, they are in a way more fiery. SE Asians in general are very kind and gentle people and in most cases this applies to Thai people also. They have these big smiles and they know how to make fun of life. But within the region they are the more aggressive and violent ones perhaps. As far as I know, Thailand is the only country in the region which has a living fighting sport tradition, muay Thai, or Thai boxing. They consume unbelievable amounts of really strong red bull and other stimulants all day long. In fact red bull started in Thailand where the local versions have too much caffeine and taurine to be legally exported.

Picking drinkers from the street on the new year day in Bangkok's Khaosan Road.
It is very strong and you can be 12 and still have it!

Most Thais are Buddhist (some Muslims and Chinese also) and in traditional families men still spend a couple of years time as a monk in a monastery (somehow like the military service back in the west but not compulsory of course). This is a tradition of the whole Indochina region and even the king does his duty as a monk, and for some years every morning takes his bowl and goes begging. On the other hand, also like other societies in the region, there is belief in spirits, supernatural powers and honoring of the ancestors (sometimes wrongly mentioned as ‘ancestor worship’). They make these tiny houses in front of their houses where they keep little statues of their ancestors and honor them with offerings of rice, fruits and Fanta every morning. Many Thai people are crazy for amulets. You can find amulet markets by the sidewalk where vendors sell little clay figures of monks in meditation, or sometimes Buddha. The clay from each amulet supposedly comes from a sacred location and they are sometimes produced in monasteries. After you put the jewelers magnifying glass in your eye and check out all the tiny detail of workmanship and you decide to buy one amulet, you find a suitable house for it, which is a little transparent plastic ad silver pendant that you can hang on your neck with a heavy chain. And some people carry really big ones.

A shrine for dead ancestors shared by a living neighbor on the basement.

Thailand used to be called Siam but changed their name because Siamese is just the main ethnicity here, whereas Thai means free, thus Thailand ‘Freeland’. I really appreciate this kind of name changes. Burma changed into Myanmar with the same reason as there are other ethnicities than the Burmese in Myanmar. I wish the same will be possible for Turkey and other countries where racial identities try to dominate a whole country.

Monasteries are home to many dogs, to the point that there are more dogs than monks like this one.
And the first time I was seriously bitten by a dog was when I was in a monastery in South Thailand,
sitting and meditating under a tree early in the morning. Bad karma dog!

Being a foreigner in Thailand makes you a ‘farang’ and you are recognized as a money source in most places. It is so strong that it feels like in return of most Thais seeing all foreigners as tourists, most foreigners treat the country as an oversized hotel. Although this makes the country very convenient to travel in, I cannot say it is a good feeling not to be seen as a real person.

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I rushed this one to post it just before I leave for Taiwan.
I hope to write more about Thailand when I’m back here in March.